The Umzimvubu River.
Image: Instagram / hiking_44_adventures
Port St Johns is the kind of place that stays with you long after the red dust has settled on your car, and it’s a destination every South African should experience at least once.
Growing up, I remember those family trips with my parents, and there’s a specific magic to this part of the Wild Coast that doesn’t seem to change.
While much of our coastline has been developed into high-rises and busy promenades, this town has remained rugged.
It’s a place where the Umzimvubu River cuts a path through the massive sandstone cliffs known as the “Gates of St John”, creating a landscape that feels much older and more soul-stirring than your average beach town.
The Umzimvubu river in the Eastern Cape that flows into the Indian Ocean at the resort town of Port St. Johns.
Image: John Woodroof
What makes it so special is the complete lack of pretension. It’s one of the few coastal escapes left where "affordable" isn't just a marketing buzzword.
You can find everything from cosy self-catering cottages tucked into the forest to world-renowned backpackers like Amapondo, where the vibe is all about communal fire pits and meeting travellers from every corner of the globe.
It appeals to a specific type of South African: the one who doesn't mind a few potholes if it means they get to see a cow sunbathing on the beach, or the fisherman who wants to test his luck in some of the best angling waters in the country.
It’s for the hikers who want to disappear into the Silaka Nature Reserve and the families who want their kids to see a world that’s still a little bit wild.
There is a "live and let live" energy in the air here that’s hard to find anywhere else.
You’ll see traditional Xhosa healers walking the same streets as local hippies and international explorers, all drawn by that same magnetic, subtropical pull.
Whether you're standing on the airstrip at the top of Mount Thesiger watching the sunset over the gorge or exploring the rock pools at Second Beach, you realise that the beauty isn't just in the scenery, but in the slow pace of life.
Getting there is part of the adventure, as the R61 from Mthatha serves as the main gateway.
It’s a spectacular drive, but you’ll want to take it slow because the road is known for its many sharp bends and the occasional wandering livestock that likes to claim the tarmac.
Once you arrive, you’ll find the town has a deep-seated rustic charm.
You shouldn't expect high-end shopping malls here; instead, the heart of the place lies in its local markets, handmade craft shops, and unique guesthouses.
It also serves as a fantastic base if you want to explore nearby stops like Lusikisiki or the famous hole-in-the-wall at Coffee Bay, though Port St Johns has a flavour all its own.
The timing of your visit can change the experience entirely. While the summer months from December to March are perfect for soaking up the heat, the winter season holds its own legendary secret.
Between June and July, Port St Johns becomes a front-row seat for the Sardine Run. Millions of sardines migrate up the coast, bringing a massive feeding frenzy of dolphins, whales, and birds right to the shoreline.
If you’re looking for a getaway that’s easy on the wallet but incredibly rich in character, it’s time to head back to the Wild Coast.