Cape Town - It was not the chirping of birds nor the gentle knock of a game ranger telling guests it was time to rise for an early-morning game drive, but calls of “Kom, kom uit” (Come, come out), that woke me. Unusually, these entreaties were being directed not at a person, but an elephant.
During the night, I had heard contented rumblings close to my room. It was a comforting sound. Now, as the sun slipped above the horizon, clearly Thandora was still happily munching on delicacies in the vicinity, and had to be persuaded to move so the guests could leave their rooms.
An orphan from a Kruger Park culling in 1989, Thandora had been in captivity in the Bloemfontein Zoo for 24 years.
A ground-breaking decision was taken to move the lonely elephant to let her experience the life of a free-ranging animal: wallow in the mud, interact with others of her kind.
By moving her to Gondwana Game Reserve, near Mossel Bay, the Bloemfontein Zoo became the first in Africa to allow an elephant its freedom in such a manner.
Mark Rutherfoord, owner/director of Gondwana and wife Wendy, said there had been much excitement when the team went to fetch her. “However, when spending an extended period of time with her at the zoo, we were slightly concerned as we were not aware of how much human interaction she was getting.
“She had been ridden as a young elephant, and was being handled almost as a tame animal,” he said.
As the team had prepared for a slightly more independent animal, the rehabilitation programme had to be altered slightly. Desensitising her to human interaction became an important challenge, along with increasing her fitness and altering her diet.
As to the moment when she first arrived at her new home, while she had been given the correct medication to ensure she remained calm and relaxed, Mark said she had proved incredibly brave. “She came off the truck with no hesitation and started grazing the grass immediately.”
Seeing her move into the holding boma had been an emotional experience for everyone involved, not just for Thandora but also for what was being achieved, and the experience gained to help other elephants in similar circumstances, he said.
While Thandora now has the company of six other elephants, old habits die hard, and the zoo-raised animal clearly still longs for human company. Comes nightfall, she makes the long climb up the hills to the lodge, sometimes accompanied by the other elephants. The night I was there, she suddenly emerged as a dark shadow, just as we sat down to dinner.
She proceeded to browse contentedly, and toss a couple of chair cushions around just for fun.
Eleven-thousand hectare Gondwana, close to Mossel Bay – with striking views of the Langeberg mountains in the distance – is said to be the only fynbos reserve in the world with free roaming Big Five, as well as endangered species such as the Cape mountain zebra, and the Black Harrier hawk.
Its Kwena Huts (a far cry from a hut, they are spacious, luxurious suites) are said to be Khoi San inspired.
Located to both sides of the main buildings housing restaurant, bar, lounges and reception, the Kwena Huts have a 180º view over the fynbos towards the distant mountains, as well as the slate-lined swimming pool and small water hole below.
Alternative accommodation is in the privately situated bush villas, which can be staffed with your own field guide, chef and butler, or rented as self-catering units. The home-made ginger beer served on arrival was refreshing, and meals – which are served either indoors or on the terrace outside in fine weather – were excellent. The next morning, breakfast outside, looking towards the distant mountains, with a clutch of guinea fowl clucking noisily, was memorable.
On the game drive, we kept our eyes peeled for the resident pride of eight lions: one male, two females and five cubs, but did not strike it lucky. Nor did we encounter the other elephants, but we did spot giraffe, spur fowl, and other contented creatures.
Talking about lion, I approached Gondwana via a turn-off at Ruitersbos on the Robinson Pass, rather than the usual route from Mossel Bay. The drive, along this dirt road, was pleasant and interesting: marked by a bushbuck bounding across, and a tiny field mouse scurrying to safety. Suddenly, crossing a cattle grid, just beyond a gate, there was a sign warning one to beware of lions. This was a district road… How could there be lions? It emerged that the road, normally used by local farmers, passed through a portion of Gondwana.
At sunset, when the sinking sun etched the peaks of the Langeberg against a lemon sky, everything looked other-worldly – almost as though an artist had added ethereal mountains on to his canvas. Scudding clouds, posing as fluffy peaks on the skyline, added to the atmosphere.
As we drove back to the lodge, another magical site awaited us. Lanterns and tiny lamps set at ankle level along the winding paths, together with the main lodge bathed in a gentle glow of light, made it seems like a tiny kingdom lit by glow-worms and fireflies.
Contact: 044 697 7077; 074 582 4861; e-mail: [email protected] or check out the website www.gondwanagamereserve.com - Sunday Tribune