Memorable, tasteful stay

Published Apr 4, 2013

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Cape Town - Akademie Street Boutique Hotel and Guesthouse is located on the quiet oak-lined street of Akademie in Franschhoek and is owned by Katherine and Arthur McWilliam Smith, with daughter Jessie in the management mix.

When I arrived for my memorable stay I was met by Anna the black labrador and manager Hazel Hippolyte, and the warm but polite welcome I received from both was the happy start to a unique experience.

Never have I stayed somewhere where guests are treated with such care and consideration. I have been to exclusive hideaways that cover all the bases – or so I thought. Here it is “au naturelle”, never overstated or hoity toity.

We were in one of two guest suites in the main house. Both had soundproofing similar to a broadcast studio to ensure guests are not disturbed. There was a plugged-in cellphone at each bedside with Akademie Street on speed dial, for guests to take on their outings to call for directions/ advice etc.

Complimentary everything – premium bubbly, mini bar, wi-fi, laundry (leave it in the bathtub in the morning and it comes back all fresh by late afternoon), excellent Nespresso machine, excellent aircon – it stood to reason that everything else: the huge bed, linen and bathroom were top notch. Curtains on the inside, shutters on the outside, a private conservatory, glass roof retracted by day and a beautiful, unfussy garden complex are some of the attractions.

Other accommodation included Oortuiging, a cottage built in the 1860s in the shade of a great white stinkwood, and Gelatenheid, a double-storey building with a wide balcony, outside bath, superb mountain views, a long swimming pool and fountain garden.

All of the guesthouses connect through winding garden pathways and meet at the Cape Dutch main home, Twyfeling, where breakfasts are served under a vine-covered patio alongside the heated pool.

And what breakfasts they were – definitely not ones to be rushed.

Although Franschhoek has much to offer, our first stop was to nearby Paarl where you can buy chocolates that were on our bed, the best I’ve ever tasted – and since I am a chocoholic, I know.

DV Artisan Chocolate, in a Cape Dutch manor house on the Suid Agter Paarl Road, is the baby of Pieter and Cornell de Villers. This is single origin stuff from Trinidad, Madagascar, Sao Tome, two different locations in Venezuela and, my favourite, Uganda. Century-old artisanal methods result in gorgeous flavours. This is not chocolate to be scoffed but to savour slowly.

Arthur is a real foodie who started the famous Le Quartier Francais restaurant and is a former mayor of Franschhoek. Naturally his restaurant recommendations were insightful to say the least.

Boekenhoutskloof, high up on the slopes in the corner of the valley, was established in 1776. Rescued from dereliction in 1993 and revamped, Boekenhoutskloof was John Platter’s 2012 winery of the year, producing such wines as Porcupine Ridge, Wolftrap and Chocolate Block.

We certainly enjoyed the premium Boekenhoutskloof label wine on the terrace, sharing the magnificent views with the giant porcupine sculpture.

Winding our way down, purchases clinking in packets, we visited the less-known but equally commendable family-run Stonybrook, en route to a very special lunch.

Funiki, in the heart of L’Ermitage Chateau and Villas, is Kiyomasu Deon Sensei’s quaint little Japanese eatery. You don’t have to know anything about what is termed sushi to know that this is Japanese cuisine at its best. The care and precision taken to prepare the sushi by Deon was quite something. We had our first course for free – he wasn’t satisfied with the salmon or rice – and had the best salmon roses and wasabi imaginable. “Better than sex,” breathed my companion.

We took in more wine, and wonderful art, at La Motte and Grande Provence.

We also squeezed in a dinner at Le Quartier Francais, not in the award-winning Tasting Room but in the Common Room. More suited to our pockets, we rationalised.

It was nevertheless of a high standard and we had a memorable evening, with a wide range of original tapas. Margot Janse, who oversees both restaurants, is chef of the year in the 2012 Eat Out DStv Food Network Restaurant Awards. ’Nuff said.

Akademie Street is one of Portfolio Collection’s trusted places to stay. Call 021 7021236 or visit www.portfoliocollection.com

This once I fully endorse all the praise on Tripadvisor. - Sunday Tribune

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