Cape Town - The Cape is the perfect place to chill over a long weekend and in off-peak seasons, like September, there are travel specials offering attractive discount rates on accommodation, transport and airfares. This makes a stay in the Cape more affordable for domestic tourists.
The downside to a September break, however, is that the Cape weather can be highly unpredictable. Visitors may experience four seasons in one day, which I did.
The first three weeks saw the Cape whipped by storms, snowy conditions and bitterly cold temperatures going into single digits.
My ticket was non-refundable, and this was the deciding factor. Rather than lose money, I would go prepared for the cold. Subsequently, my modestly size weekend bag was bursting at the seams with winter and rain gear. I had planned to see and do special things, some of which were September-specific. Since I was keen to see whales, I took a day tour to Hermanus, which is in the heart of the Cape Whale Coast and is only 120km from Cape Town.
Because of its natural beauty, it has become a very popular tourist destination and has earned the title of the best land-based whale-watching destination.
The Two Oceans Whale Festival was held from September 20-29, and so the small fishing town was filled to overflowing with day trippers and weekend visitors. Besides whale watching, there were other activities such as bike races, trail runs and live shows on the go.
The drive along the coastal road route of the Overberg was wonderfully scenic.
The name Overberg means “over the mountain”, that is eastwards from Cape Town. We did a whistle-stop at Harold Porter National Botanical Gardens, which was developed by Harold Nixon Porter, an architect, horticulturist and town planner.
This splendid 160ha reserve has the largest concentration of wild species in the country, including many rare species such as the red disa, a ground orchid that grows in moist rock crevices above the trail through the shady gorge of the Disa River. The reserve was ablaze with colour.
On our arrival in Hermanus, our guide took us to the Ferndale Nature Reserve a short way away from a very busy Gearings Point, overlooking the old harbour in the centre of the town where crowds gathered around the main festival tents.
From Sievert’s Point, we started our whale spotting. Fairly far out to sea, we saw Southern Right whales breeching and blowing. Others in our group had opted to go out on a catamaran to get closer to these magnificent creatures.
By law, boats are not allowed to get closer than 50 metres, but the curious whales are unaware of this and move right alongside the craft.
If I had been travelling independently, I would have explored the Hermanus Wine Route along the R320. The region produces some of the best pinot noirs, chardonnays and sauvignon blancs in the country.
The cooler maritime climate and the influence of the cold Benguela current play a significant role here in the production of the distinctive grapes. The 20km road is scenically beautiful and is part of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley.
Brother Schmidt, a Moravian missionary, named the valley. He said in his journal that the high hills embraced the valley and they seemed to touch, making heaven and earth indistinguishable.
The following day I did a road trip with friends to Franschhoek, (French glen), which is 25km south-east of Paarl. There are no fewer than 22 wine estates, so there were plenty of short stops before heading into town.
At Babylonstoren (Tower of Babylon), a beautiful farm estate, we had brunch and some strong coffee. In the old styled farmhouse they sold olive oils, jams, preserves, fresh bread and meats. The estate is set in beautiful landscaped geometric gardens. Clivias, lavender bushes and fruit trees were in bloom.
The informal restaurant is in a glass conservatory towards the back of the farm. A simple but wonderful menu of fresh farm treats is served throughout the day.
Sunday was a beautiful day – I spent the morning walking in Kirstenbosch, which is one of the world’s greatest botanical horticultural institutions. This year the historic garden celebrates 100 years of existence. It is located about 12km from Cape Town in the long shadows of the eastern slopes of Table Mountain. It covers 560ha filled with more than 6 000 species of trees and plants. The king proteas, ericas and fynbos were in full bloom and looking magnificent in the clear, sharp sunlight. Of special interest in the gardens is Van Riebeeck’s wild almond hedge, planted in 1660 to protect the settlement against encroachment.
Sunday lunch time I travelled to Kalk Bay with my niece and nephew (both are studying at Stellenbosch University). The trip along the coast was scenic and interesting. We passed through several seaside towns dotted with historic buildings such as Cecil Rhodes’s cottage outside St James, which is now a museum.
Kalk Bay (lime bay) takes its name from the lime that was once produced in the area by burning shells in special kilns. This fishing town was very busy; lots of tourists walked the streets lined with restaurants, antique shops, bookstores and clothing shops. We had lunch at one of my favourite restaurants, The Olympia, which has become an institution with Capetonians. After lunch we walked to the harbour, which was a hive of activity. Seals were darting in and around the fishing boats. Seagulls were swooping with the intention of nabbing scraps off the fishermen.
On the wharf the fishermen were haggling with prospective customers over the price of their freshly caught fish.
My last morning I spent at the National Art Gallery in the Gardens.
During Heritage Month, entrances to certain museums are free of charge. There were two exhibitions that were interesting. One was called Objects of Time and Tide, which is the permanent collection highlighting the shifting history of Iziko Art over the past 130 years. The other exhibition was called Against the Grain, which profiled the works of five exceptional wood sculptors from the Western Cape.
My short four-day break had refreshed and recharged my spirit. As a student of history, I continue to be drawn to the uniqueness of the Cape. Its roots in civilisation and urbanity run deep, making it still in my opinion, “the fairest Cape”.
Some useful sites and addresses:
www.tsogosun.com
www.travelstart.co.za