Cape Town - Sometimes it pays to be a tourist in your own country. My partner and I made this discovery, quite accidentally, while trying to find affordable accommodation in Franschhoek for the literary festival. We were unsuccessful, but a friend suggested we try further afield in Paarl or Stellenbosch, and having a city girl’s grasp of geography, I decided on Stellenbosch – and it worked in our favour.
We stayed that weekend at the family-owned Knorhoek Wine Estate, situated at the foothills of the Simonsberg Mountains on the Stellenbosch wine route. The property is bordered on all sides by vineyards and Blue-Gum forest, so as soon as our car passed through the gates, we were swallowed by the countryside. The abundance of birdlife only added to this impression.
Our gumboot-wearing hostess, Carol, flanked by two dogs, welcomed us with glasses of wine and a quick tour of the property, which includes a guesthouse set among oak trees in the rose-framed gardens. The rooms have been converted from the old stables and coachhouse, giving them a rustic charm that is in tune with the surroundings. The owners have capitalised on this old-worldliness by adapting the decor accordingly. Throughout Knorhoek you’ll find beautiful stone floors, vintage mismatched dinnerware and flowers arranged in artfully kitsch biscuit tins and vintage jars.
The furnishings in our room were simple and comfortable. To keep out the winter chill, we were presented with an embroidered hot water bottle. Thankfully, the stone walls kept out the cold well enough on their own. Knorhoek offers country-living at its best. We weren’t looking for five-star, but what we did find was a feeling of arriving home, which no amount of paint and satin sheets can achieve.
The purpose of our visit called us further afield, but we decided to make the most of our stay by exploring the grounds as thoroughly as possible. During our wanderings we discovered the Towerbosch Restaurant, hidden among the trees at the foot of the farm. The team was hard at work preparing for a wedding, and the little garden dining room gleamed beneath a bedouin tent and fairy lights. It’s a lovely spot regardless, with wide glass windows facing the forest.
A quick walk down a country road brought us to a vegetable garden complete with old wheelbarrows, hand-written signage and herbs growing out of old tyres and boots. The resident bull terrier, Merlot, accompanied us on our ramblings, leading us past the family cemetery and down the quiet vineyards. I guessed that this was his accepted role on the property, to show guests around. He appeared throughout our stay to check up on us, and again at the end to say goodbye. I’ll miss the old chap. Every aspect of the farm exudes a sense of peace and tranquility and is better than a week at the spa. I’m sure the fresh country air has something to do with it too.
The property also has a cellar and tasting room, which we made use of. The tasting room is open during the week from 10am-5pm and it costs R20 to taste five wines. The setting is quite wonderful too. The price of the tasting falls away the minute you buy a bottle, which is hard not to do. The tasting menu includes the affordable Two Cub wines, the delicious Knorhoek Pantere reserve wines, and one sparkling wine. There are also cheese platters available.
An overnight stay at the Knorhoek guesthouse is affordable, and well worth the drive out to Stellenbosch to experience the rustic charm and old-fashioned hospitality. As city dwellers, we’re far too used to the frenetic pace and short tempers that go hand in with city life. Sometimes you just have to take a step off the beaten track…
l www.knorhoek.co.za - The Sunday Independent