Cape Town - Driving down the road between George and Uniondale, that follows the valley flanked on one side by the Outeniqua mountains and on the other by the Kammanassie mountains, I spotted a deserted building. Painted on its side was a soaring eagle. Beneath it the words “Eagle Falls Resort” were emblazoned.
Now that was a spot which I had long earmarked for a visit, but had forgotten was in this area. Plans to overnight at Kareedouw or Uniondale flew out the bakkie window.
Almost as though it had a mind of its own, the bakkie swung off the tar road and headed towards the Kammanasie mountains. The road was good, the scenery emotive. Eight kilometres later came the turn-off to Eagle Falls Resort. After the recent heavy rains, the road was rutted. Still, it was only another three kilometres to my destination.
As I came over a rise, there it was, down in an unspoiled valley. The swollen Molen River plunged over two sets of waterfalls. Overlooking this dramatic scene were the different structures that make up the resort.
The cream of the crop, chalet No 1, set on stilts on the hillside, has magnificent views of the falls and up the gorge towards the Kammanassie range.
While the emphasis is on self-catering, there is a restaurant for those who want a break from cooking. This public area has a deck that overlooks the river.
After checking into one of the adjoining cabins, it was time to explore. First up the hillside to chalet No 1. It was unoccupied and the owner gave me the keys so that I could spend time there, drinking in the view and listening to the roar of the falls.
It’s the kind of comfortable accommodation that many people find difficult to tear themselves away from. Apparently people who have booked for just one night often stay longer.
Next up was a walk down to the river. The deep pool, popular for dips in summer, was overflowing with the river in spate. But it was far too cold to take the plunge.
The farm has been in the Le Roux family for generations. The current owner, Michael, said a friend had suggested he develop the spectacular setting in the gorge. So he built chalet No 1. The rest followed over the years.
Michael’s mother, Ria, said the river had never dried up, though in it was reduced to a trickle in drought years.
Eagle Falls camp site also has a dramatic setting, with the sound of the wind in the surrounding trees making it seem even wilder. The place is popular for children’s camps, though some are drawn to its peace and isolation.
Adventure activities include: hiking; bird watching; a 4x4 route; quadbiking; horse riding; swimming in mountain pools; fishing; rock climbing and abseiling.
If you can tear yourself away from this, drive to Langkloof valley, famous for its fruit. You can reach Uniondale along the tar road or a good dirt track beneath the Kammanassie mountains. Or head for the Cango Caves or Oudtshoorn ostrich farms.
As for the rutted road, Michael said it would be graded as soon as the weather settled.
At sunset, I sat on the deck and listened to the sound of the turbulent waters. Even at night, with doors and windows shut against the winter cold, there was the distant murmur of the sleepless river. Again in the morning, this was the place to be, living life on the wild side. - Sunday Tribune
l Contact: 044 745 1122; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.eaglefalls.co.za